The story of Greenland's sled dogs and their connection to climate change is a powerful reminder of the global impact of rising temperatures. It's a tale that begins with a young boy, Jørgen Kristensen, who found solace and friendship in his stepfather's sled dogs, growing up in a remote village in northern Greenland. Kristensen's unique background, with a Danish father he never knew, set him apart from his dark-haired Inuit classmates, but it was the dogs who always had his back.
At just nine years old, Kristensen ventured out onto the ice with the dogs, fishing and forging a lifelong love affair with them. This passion led him to become a five-time Greenlandic dog sled champion. But today, something has changed. Kristensen, now 62, shares his concerns with The Associated Press, explaining how the rising temperatures in Ilulissat, a town north of the Arctic Circle, have brought about a new reality.
"Instead of gliding over snow and ice, my sled now bounces over earth and rock. I can't remember a January without snow or ice in the bay. The permafrost is melting, buildings are sinking, and pipes are cracking. It's a sign of the times, and it affects us all," Kristensen says.
The nearby Sermeq Kujalleq glacier, one of the fastest-moving on the planet, is a testament to the changing climate. According to UNESCO, it sends more icebergs into the sea than any other glacier outside Antarctica. NASA reports that as the glacier retreats and carves off ice faster, it significantly contributes to rising sea levels worldwide, from Europe to the Pacific Islands.
But there's a controversial twist. Many Greenlanders believe that the melting ice, which could reveal untapped mineral deposits, is the real reason behind U.S. President Donald Trump's interest in Greenland. Trump's demands to own the island and previous suggestions of taking it by force have sparked speculation.
Kristensen recalls the winters of the 1980s, when temperatures regularly dipped to -25 Celsius (-13 Fahrenheit). Now, he says, there are many days above freezing, sometimes reaching as high as 10 Celsius (50 Fahrenheit). The changing climate has even impacted his dogs' water supply, forcing him to collect snow for them to drink during their journeys.
"Greenlanders have always adapted, but the loss of the ice affects us deeply. If we lose dog sledding, we lose large parts of our culture, and that's scary," Kristensen says, his voice breaking with emotion.
The sea ice, once a reliable "big bridge" connecting Greenlanders to hunting grounds and other Inuit communities across the Arctic, is disappearing. Kristensen explains that hunters should be able to venture far out on the sea ice in winter, but this January, there was none. "Driving a dog sled on ice is like being on a limitless highway. Not having that is a great loss," he adds.
The warming weather also poses dangers to fishermen, who have swapped dog sleds for boats. Morgan Angaju Josefsen Røjkjær, Kristensen's business partner, explains that rain-induced ice is more like glass, lacking the air pockets that give snow-induced ice its brilliant white color. Fishermen can see the white ice and avoid it, but the glass-like ice formed from rain is more treacherous, as it blends in with the sea and can cause accidents.
Climate change, according to Sara Olsvig, chair of the Inuit Circumpolar Council, is "affecting us deeply." The Arctic is warming three to four times faster than the global average, amplifying the impact.
The glaciers are melting, and over Kristensen's lifetime, the Sermeq Kujalleq glacier has retreated by about 40 kilometers (25 miles), says Karl Sandgreen, head of Ilulissat's Icefjord Center. Looking out at the snowless hills, Sandgreen describes the revealed mountain rock and an ice-free valley inside the fjord. It's uncertain if the town can hold its ice music festival in February due to the lack of ice and snow.
Pollution, particularly black carbon from ship engines and volcanic debris, is speeding up the ice melt. These dark materials reduce the reflection of sunlight, absorbing more heat and accelerating melting. Black carbon has increased with more ship traffic in the Arctic, and nearby Iceland's periodic volcanic eruptions contribute to this issue.
Many Greenlanders believe that Trump's interest in Greenland is driven by his desire for the minerals revealed by the melting ice. Sandgreen says, "His agenda is to get the minerals." Since Trump returned to office, fewer U.S. climate scientists have visited Ilulissat, and Sandgreen urges the U.S. president to "listen to the scientists" documenting the impact of global warming.
Kristensen tries to educate the tourists he takes out on dog sled rides or iceberg visits about the consequences of global warming. He emphasizes the importance of Greenland's glaciers, comparing them to the Amazon rainforest in Brazil. While international summits like the United Nations climate talks in Belem, Brazil, play a role, Kristensen believes it's just as crucial to "teach children all over the world" about the significance of ice and oceans alongside subjects like math.
"If we don't start with the children, we can't help nature. We can only destroy it," Kristensen says. This story is a powerful reminder of the interconnectedness of our world and the urgent need for action on climate change.
